Törggelen in South Tyrol: an old tradition with young wine, chestnuts and wellness

When autumn winds blow through Valle Isarco and the scent of roasted chestnuts drifts out of the Buschenschank taverns, the most beautiful time of year begins in South Tyrol. Törggelen is more than a custom, it is a ceremonial invitation into the farming culture of the region. You sit in a parlour with a beamed ceiling, the farmer serves you himself, the wine in your glass is three weeks old, outside the larches turn golden and down in the valley the apple red shines. This guide explains what Törggelen is, when the season runs, where to go and which hotels combine Törggelen with wellness.

What exactly is Törggelen

The word Törggelen comes from Torggl, from Latin torculum, the wine press. In autumn farmers used to invite friends, farmhands and neighbours to taste the new wine straight from the press. This came with a hearty Marende of speck, cheese, bread and roasted chestnuts. Out of this farm gesture a culinary tradition has grown over centuries, which shapes autumn in South Tyrol.

Today Törggelen takes place in a Buschenschank, a farm tavern that only serves its own or regional products. The farmer pours his own wine, the cook prepares whatever farm and garden offer, the bread comes from the farm oven. You rarely sit alone, often at a long table with other guests in a warm parlour.

Important to know: Buschenschank and restaurant are not the same. In the Buschenschank there is no printed menu, often only a slate on the wall with the dishes of the day. Reservations rarely come with a fixed time, but the atmosphere is unlike any hotel.

Törggelen season: mid September to mid November

The Törggelen season starts with the grape harvest and ends shortly before the first snow. Specifically, it runs from mid September to mid November. The peak is in October. Days are still warm, evenings already cool, larches golden and Buschenschank full. November brings the first cold nights, parlours are heated and Törggelen becomes more intimate.

For weekends in October, book early. Popular addresses like Pacherhof in Novacella or Steidlhof in Chiusa are often booked out six weeks in advance. On weekday evenings you can still get a table at short notice in most houses.

The season traditionally ends at Martinmas on 11 November. After that, most Buschenschank close and the wine officially goes to the cellar for ageing.

The classic Törggelen menu

A typical Törggelen menu is a culinary journey through the South Tyrolean farm autumn. It starts with a barley soup, a thick broth of barley, speck, celery and root vegetables. Sometimes a pumpkin soup or a clear broth with liver dumplings.

The main course is either a farm meat platter with cured pork, house sausage, blood sausage, sauerkraut and polenta, or Schlutzkrapfen with spinach and ricotta, or spinach dumplings with butter and parmesan, or Schöpsernes lamb with potatoes. In some houses you receive a cold Marende with speck, cheese, sausage, eggs and bread. Vinschger Paarl bread is always on the table as a side.

Then come the roasted chestnuts, classically pan or wood oven roasted, with coarse salt crystals and a glass of Sußer. Sußer is the young, freshly fermented wine, lightly sparkling, sweetish, 6 to 9 percent alcohol. Some prefer a classic Schiava or Lagrein.

To finish you get krapfen, sweet filled dough pockets with poppy seed, apple jam or chestnut puree, paired with schnapps. Williams pear, apricot, rowanberry, herbs or Swiss pine are typical brandies.

Buschenschank in Valle Isarco and southern South Tyrol

The two main Törggelen regions are Valle Isarco between Bressanone and Chiusa and the south around Bolzano, Appiano and Caldaro. In both you find Buschenschank with long traditions and their own wine.

In Valle Isarco the following addresses are classic: Pacherhof in Novacella near Bressanone, a winery with attached Buschenschank, top kitchen, own wines, premium address. Klosterhof in Chiusa, a complex with restaurant and distillery, perfect for a comprehensive tasting. Steidlhof in Chiusa, smaller and intimate with wood oven and hearty cooking. Untermoarhof in Varna, simpler and more original, with own wine and schnapps. Pirminihof in Verdignes, an insider tip with a panoramic view over Valle Isarco.

In southern South Tyrol the addresses are: Buschenschank Pernhof in Appiano, a traditional farm with Schiava and robust cooking. Mooswalder in San Paolo, classic for board Marende. Buschenschank Larcherhof in Tramin, modern with Gewürztraminer from their own harvest. Eichbergerhof in Caldaro, with vineyard views to Lake Caldaro.

For both regions, book one to four weeks ahead, plan three to four hours for a five to seven course menu and use bus or taxi because wine flows.

Where Törggelen and wellness work together

You do not want to drive 90 minutes back to your hotel after a Törggelen evening? Choose a base in Valle Isarco or Val Pusteria with short transfers to Buschenschank and a large spa for the day after.

The Santre dolomythic home in Bressanone is the ideal urban address. You are walking distance to three Buschenschank, the old town of Bressanone at your door and a modern spa with sauna, pool and treatments inside the hotel. In the morning you breakfast on the loggia with a view of the prince bishop's palace, at noon you walk the Keschtnweg, in the evening you go Törggelen.

Hotel MASL in Valles lies higher, in the Gitschberg Jochtal ski area. Here you combine mountain air with a Buschenschank tour. The hotel has its own alpine kitchen and a spa with panoramic view. Buschenschank in Valles and Mühlbach are 10 to 20 minutes away.

Falkensteiner Hotel Falkensteinerhof in Valles is the second wellness option in the valley with spa, indoor pool and a large sauna area. Both offer half board, so on the Törggelen evening you take dinner at the Buschenschank and the next day the seven course menu at the hotel.

If you prefer wellness in the south you find the wine region around Caldaro and Appiano. The SEELEITEN Lake Spa Hotel on Lake Caldaro is adults only and a top address for wine and spa. Buschenschank in Eppan and Caldaro are reachable with the hotel shuttle.

Practical tips Törggelen

How do I book? By phone, mail or via the hotel reception. Most Buschenschank have a website, some an online booking system.

What does a Törggelen evening cost? 35 to 60 euros per person for a five to seven course menu including drinks. Higher houses such as Pacherhof go up to 80 euros per person.

How do I get there and back? Hotel shuttle, taxi or bus. Driving yourself is not recommended because Sußer and wine flow. Most Buschenschank are not reachable by public bus, you need a taxi.

How do I dress? Comfortable and warm. Parlours are warm, outside it is cool. Sweater plus jacket, closed shoes for the walk from car park to farm.

Are there vegetarian options? Yes. Schlutzkrapfen, spinach dumplings, cheese dumplings, soups, bread and cheese are vegetarian. Vegan is harder, ask in advance.

Can I do Törggelen with children? Yes, in many Buschenschank. Children usually get smaller portions and non alcoholic Sußer. Ask for child options when booking.

Frequently asked questions about Törggelen

What is the difference between Sußer, Heuriger and Törggelen wine? Sußer is the freshly fermented wine with residual sugar, lightly sparkling, 6 to 9 percent alcohol. Heuriger is the first fully fermented wine of the vintage. Törggelen wine is the umbrella term for both, served at the Buschenschank in the respective season.

Which day is best? Weekday evenings the parlours are more familial and quieter. October weekends are full but lively. I recommend Wednesday or Thursday.

Can I also Törggelen in Val Pusteria? The tradition comes from the south and Valle Isarco, where most Buschenschank are. In Val Pusteria there are scattered addresses but not the same density.

How long does a Törggelen evening last? Three to four hours. Allow more time for the conversations at the table, which are part of the concept.

What is the Keschtnweg? The Keschtnweg is a 90 kilometre trail from Novacella to Postal that runs through old chestnut groves. A perfect prelude to Törggelen.

Törggelen for connoisseurs: three tours

Tour 1: Bressanone and Valle Isarco on a weekend Arrive Friday afternoon in Bressanone, check in at Santre. Walk through the arcades, coffee at Pupp pastry. Evening Törggelen at Pacherhof in Novacella, 20 minutes by taxi. Saturday morning Keschtnweg between Novacella and Varna, five kilometres, one and a half hours. Lunch Marende at Untermoarhof. Afternoon spa at the hotel. Evening Buschenschank in Chiusa, classically Steidlhof. Sunday morning Valle Isarco Cantina wine shop, tasting. Drive home.

Tour 2: Caldaro and the south Arrive Friday at Caldaro, check in at SEELEITEN. Lake walk, aperitif on the hotel terrace. Evening Törggelen at Buschenschank Larcherhof in Tramin. Saturday morning guided tour Cantina Tramin with Gewürztraminer tasting. Lunch Marende at Pernhof in Appiano. Afternoon Vinotherapy in the hotel spa. Evening starred restaurant or half board. Sunday apple farm in Lana, lunch on the way home.

Tour 3: up and down, Valles and Bressanone Arrive Friday in Valles, check in at Hotel MASL. Evening at the hotel, spa and good dinner. Saturday hike in Gitschberg Jochtal with cable car up. Lunch at an alpine hut. Afternoon transfer to Bressanone, city walk. Evening Törggelen in Varna or Chiusa. Sunday spa, brunch and drive home. Guests at Falkensteinerhof replace Hotel MASL as the valley wellness option.

What to take home

Sußer or aged wine from the farm shop or wine bar is always a good idea. A bottle of Sußer for 12 to 18 euros, a Lagrein for 14 to 28 euros, a schnapps for 25 to 45 euros per half litre. Speck and cheese from the same farm vacuum packed last three to four weeks at home. Bring a small cooler bag for the return.

Read on

Dive into South Tyrolean cuisine in the pillar South Tyrolean cuisine. For the whole autumn programme read the season guide Wellness South Tyrol by season. For general wellness hotel recommendations see the pillar Wellness hotels South Tyrol. The walking trail through the chestnut groves is described in the article Chestnut time South Tyrol Keschtnweg Törggelen.